
Nobody in Fort Stockton ever accused Leon of aiming too low.
The accusation was usually the opposite.
People thought he aimed at things that couldn’t be done.
The kind of things sensible men learned to avoid sometime around their thirtieth birthday.
The trouble was, Leon had spent twenty years living in a place where impossible ideas routinely walked around in blue jeans.
Which is how, on a warm September evening in 1987, he found himself sitting on the hood of a burgundy 1962 Pontiac Grand Prix in the parking lot of the Naughty Pine Motel, staring at a neon sign while trying to figure out how a place called the Tropicana Motel had managed to ruin him forever.
The Pontiac ticked quietly beside him as it cooled.
Leon looked up at the stars.
“Well,” he said to nobody in particular, “we’re home.”
The car didn’t answer.
It never did.
It simply sat there beneath the motel sign looking expensive and dignified and slightly out of place, which was exactly how Leon felt himself.
That Pontiac was the only truly glamorous thing he’d brought back from California.
Everything else lived in his head.
And therein lay the problem.
Because memories make terrible blueprints.
Leon had been seventeen years old when he left Fort Stockton in 1967. He’d arrived in West Hollywood carrying seventy-two dollars, a canvas duffel bag, and the vague belief that California manufactured opportunities the same way Detroit manufactured automobiles. All a person had to do was show up and point at one.
Instead, he found a horseshoe-shaped motel at 8585 Santa Monica Boulevard owned by a baseball player who was beginning to realize he’d accidentally become landlord to a revolution.
The sign read TROPICANA MOTEL.
Underneath it were smaller letters.
SANDY KOUFAX’S TROPICANA MOTEL.
Leon remembered standing there laughing.
Not because it was funny.
Because it was absurd.
Sandy Koufax.
The left arm of God.
The man who made major league hitters contemplate alternate careers.
And yet somehow he’d arrived at the conclusion that owning a motel was a prudent side business.
Leon immediately liked him for that.
It seemed wonderfully human.

The Trop itself was a contradiction. It had been built in the late 1940s for traveling salesmen coming west along Route 66. It wasn’t intended to be glamorous. It wasn’t even intended to be memorable. Seventy-four air-conditioned rooms wrapped around a courtyard, every room containing a kitchenette because the original tenants couldn’t afford apartments. Weekly rates hovered under thirty dollars if someone stayed long enough. There were palm trees, rusty patio tables, deck chairs, banana plants, and a kidney-shaped swimming pool somebody eventually painted black, perhaps under the optimistic assumption that dirt might surrender if given fewer opportunities to stand out.
It did not.
West Hollywood happened around the Trop rather than inside it. Sunset Strip drinking establishments sat a few blocks away. The Troubadour was nearby. Recording studios appeared. Elektra Sound Recorders opened. Musicians began drifting in because musicians always drift toward inexpensive rent the same way tumbleweeds drift toward fences.
One day there would be three.
The next day thirty.
Then three hundred.
The place simply absorbed them.
Leon walked into the office and asked for work.
The manager looked exhausted.
“You know how to sweep?”
“Yes.”
“You know how to clean a swimming pool?”
“I can learn.”
“You got someplace to stay?”
“No.”
The manager nodded.
“Thirty-five dollars a week and room sixteen.”
That was it.
Life changed.
No interview.
No application.
No background check.
Just a broom.
Leon always said California had a tremendous faith in underqualified young people.
His first month there he learned more about humanity than he had during seventeen years in Fort Stockton. Every morning he swept cigarette butts from the parking lot and emptied trash cans that looked as though raccoons had hosted conventions inside them. Every afternoon he cleaned the black swimming pool and disposed of whatever the previous night’s festivities had abandoned.
Drug paraphernalia.
Mostly drug paraphernalia.
There was an astonishing amount of it.
Syringes.
Pills.
Roaches.
Tiny spoons.
Aluminum foil.
Once an entire trumpet mouthpiece.
Leon never asked questions.
He filled a coffee can and threw everything away.
Every morning.
Without fail.
The place also had one payphone.
One.
That was it.
Seventy-four rooms.
Hundreds of residents over time.
One payphone.
Photographers later called it the social center of the universe. Leon thought that was exactly right. People lived around that payphone the way ancient civilizations lived around rivers. Incoming calls. Outgoing calls. Recording contracts. Arguments. Reconciliations. Bad news. Wonderful news. Everything passed through that booth.
Leon sometimes worked twelve-hour shifts simply watching humanity move in circles around it.
He loved every minute.
The remarkable thing about the Trop was that nobody behaved as though they were famous. The famous people simply became neighbors. Stevie Nicks was Stevie before she was Stevie Nicks. Tom Petty was Tom before he was Tom Petty. Joan Jett was Joan. Blondie was Blondie. Bob Marley was Bob. Everyone existed in an odd suspended state where greatness hadn’t yet attached itself permanently to their names.
Only Jim Morrison seemed permanently famous.
Mostly because he behaved as though he belonged in mythology.
Jim loved a low-rent lesbian bar across Santa Monica Boulevard called The Palms. He loved it entirely too much. Around midnight he would stagger outside and begin negotiations with gravity. Gravity usually won. Then he’d cross Santa Monica Boulevard and collapse somewhere on the Trop property.

One evening Leon found him asleep beside an ice machine.
Another time he was asleep near a ficus tree.
Once he was asleep beside the swimming pool.
Leon nudged him with his foot.
Jim opened one eye.
“Where am I?”
“The Trop.”
Jim nodded.
“Perfect.”
Then he went back to sleep.
That was Tuesday.
Leon never told anybody.
There wasn’t anything to tell.
Tom Waits fascinated him even more. Tom somehow managed to live for nine years with an upright Steinway piano jammed into a motel kitchenette. The instrument occupied most of the room. Tom occupied the rest. Leon once stood in the doorway trying to understand how either one fit.
Tom shrugged.
“Geometry’s overrated.”
Leon said, “Why stay here?”
Tom thought for a moment.
“Cheaper than therapy.”
That made enough sense.
Meanwhile Sandy Koufax slowly discovered that a baseball player and a motel owner occupied two entirely different universes. He’d purchased the property in 1962 hoping to supplement his Dodgers income and create a sensible investment for the future. Instead, he’d become caretaker of American rock and roll.
One afternoon in 1968, Leon heard a sound he’d never forget.
A low mechanical thunder.
Not loud.
Not obnoxious.
Confident.
He looked up.
A burgundy 1962 Pontiac Grand Prix rolled into the courtyard.
Good Lord.
It was magnificent.
The car sat long and low beneath California sunshine. Quad headlights framed a split Pontiac grille. Chrome gleamed everywhere. The paint looked deep enough to swim in. Eight-lug aluminum wheels sat beneath muscular fenders, and dual exhaust pipes protruded from the rear with the subtle arrogance only Pontiac engineers could justify.

Sandy climbed out.
Leon stopped sweeping.
“Beautiful car.”
Sandy smiled.
“Thank you.”
Leon circled it once.
Then twice.
Inside were black bucket seats and a center console. There was an analog clock. An AM radio. Air conditioning. A tachometer mounted beside the gauges. A Hurst Competition Plus shifter rose from the floor like a dare.
Under the hood lived the masterpiece.
Three carburetors.
Tri-Power induction.
Three.
Because Pontiac had apparently reached the conclusion that if one carburetor was good and two carburetors were better, three carburetors must therefore represent civilization itself.
Leon loved that kind of logic.
The 389 cubic-inch V8 idled with perfect authority. The four-speed transmission connected to 3.42 rear gears and a custom dual exhaust system that announced its presence without screaming for attention.
It was a grown man’s hot rod.
Sophisticated but dangerous.
Like Sandy himself.
They spoke occasionally after that. Sandy would stop by whenever he was in town and Leon eventually discovered the great pitcher possessed an almost disappointing amount of normalcy. He worried about expenses. He worried about repairs. He worried about tenants. He worried about everything.
One afternoon Leon asked him, “Was this what you imagined?”
Sandy looked around the courtyard. Two musicians were arguing about amplifiers. Somebody was sleeping in a station wagon. Somebody else was writing lyrics at a patio table.
He laughed.
“No.”
“You disappointed?”
Sandy smiled.
“No.”
He paused.
“Just surprised.”
That answer stayed with Leon for the next twenty years.
Because surprise turned out to be the entire point of the place.
Van Morrison wrote songs there. Big Brother and the Holding Company lived there. Alice Cooper lived there. Bob Marley and the Wailers worked there. Stevie Nicks came and went. Tom Petty came and went. Everybody passed through eventually.
The Trop was not a destination.
It was a train station for dreams.
Then 1987 arrived.
Developers arrived with it.
Developers always did.
Twenty million dollars.
Retail shops.
A modern hotel.
Progress.
Leon had grown to despise that word. Progress seemed to require bulldozers far more often than he considered necessary. He watched surveyors measure sidewalks and walls and courtyards and realized with sudden horror that they were measuring his entire adult life.
Twenty years.
Gone.

One afternoon he sat alone beside the black swimming pool. The place was unusually quiet. Most everyone had already left. The silence frightened him because he’d become accustomed to noise. Creative people made noise. Happy people made noise. Broken people made noise.
Dreams made noise.
The silence meant dreams had departed.
He called Fort Stockton.
His mother answered.
“You coming home?”
“I think so.”
“I’ll make enchiladas.”
His father got on the phone.
“Did you become a fool?”
Leon smiled.
“No sir.”
“Good.”
That was all.
Three weeks later Sandy Koufax sold him the Pontiac Grand Prix for next to nothing.
The two men stood beside the car one final time.
“You take care of it.”
“I will.”
Sandy nodded.
“You know why I bought this motel?”
“Security?”
Sandy laughed.
“That’s right.”
He shook his head.
“Turns out life doesn’t work that way.”
“No sir.”
“It never did.”
Leon drove east.

The Pontiac devoured Interstate 10. The Tri-Power inhaled desert air. The Hurst shifter clicked from gear to gear with absolute certainty. The air conditioning hummed. The eight-lug wheels rolled west Texas toward him mile after mile.
Home.
Fort Stockton.
Still waiting.
Because Fort Stockton was that kind of place.
It waited.
Leon purchased the failing Naughty Pine Motel shortly thereafter. He immediately went to work recreating everything he loved about the Trop. He planted palms. He installed rusty patio furniture. He built a courtyard. He kept weekly rates low. He left kitchenettes in place. He installed a payphone. One payphone. Exactly one.
He wanted dreamers.
What he got were insurance adjusters.
Then oilfield workers.
Then traveling nurses.
Then retired couples headed toward Arizona.
Every once in a while somebody arrived carrying a guitar.
Leon always smiled.
Maybe this was it.
Maybe history was beginning again.
But it never quite happened.
Because Fort Stockton wasn’t Hollywood.
It never pretended to be.
Nobody staggered home from The Palms at midnight. Nobody wrote platinum albums. Nobody jammed Steinway pianos into kitchenettes. Nobody passed out beside swimming pools.
The dreams here were smaller.
Which wasn’t the same as worse.
It just took Leon twenty years to understand the difference.
You can’t transplant ecosystems.
You can’t order Stevie Nicks through a catalog.
You can’t mail-order Bob Marley.
You can’t relocate Sunset Boulevard.
You certainly can’t import 1972.
Fort Stockton gets its own stories.
Always has.
Always will.

Now and then Leon would sit beneath the Naughty Pine sign after closing while the Pontiac Grand Prix cooled beside him beneath a west Texas sky. The burgundy paint reflected neon. The chrome caught moonlight. The old GP looked every bit as handsome as the day he’d first seen it beneath California sunshine.
Then Leon would smile.
Because perhaps Sandy Koufax had unknowingly gotten everything he’d wanted after all.
Security wasn’t a motel.
It wasn’t a baseball career.
It wasn’t even the Pontiac.
Security was knowing something worthwhile had happened to you.
Something worth carrying home.
The Trop had given Leon that.
The left arm of God had given Leon that.
The GP had brought him home.
Fort Stockton had done the rest.
And if the Naughty Pine never became legendary, that was perfectly all right.
Because Fort Stockton isn’t Hollywood.
Never has been.
But every night beneath the stars, with the Pontiac ticking quietly in the parking lot and the neon sign buzzing overhead, Leon could still hear echoes from a place that no longer existed.
A piano playing inside a kitchenette.
A payphone ringing.
Jim Morrison asking where he was.
Tom Waits muttering something impossible.
And Sandy Koufax, perhaps the greatest pitcher who ever lived, accidentally becoming landlord to the entire history of American rock and roll.
Which, if you thought about it long enough, was exactly the kind of absurd thing Fort Stockton would appreciate.
Even if nobody here would ever say so out loud.









5 responses to “THE TROP, THE GP, AND THE LEFT ARM OF GOD”
My parents retired to Florida. Through a long time family friend, I had the pleasure of being introduced to Sandy Koufax sometime around the turn of the century. He was pleased that I had been to Ebbets Field in Brooklyn, and recalled seeing him pitch there all three years that the Dodgers were still in Brooklyn before moving to Los Angeles. My grandparents had lived a very long walk from the stadium, and I had made it a point to visit from New Jersey as often as I could, but to arrange those trips when the Dodgers had a home game. He was especially pleased when I expressed my admiration over him not pitching the first game of the 1965 World Series, respecting his faith over his career. we also talked about the 1963 world series where he, Don Drysdale, Johnny Podres, and Ron Perranoski where they shut out the New York Yankees in four games – 4-up – 4-down. I remember Mr. Koufax as a generous, decent gentleman who retired at the top of his career at age 30, rather than continue to play allow his elbow issues to ruin his health and his future.
Y’all know that I love to “Leave a Reply.”
I’ve never heard of Tom Petty. I think I’m too old for that time period, or, that’s when I was learning to spell entrepreneur – which is an anagram for “Work your *** off!”
Captain, do you know how much a 62 Maroon Pontiac Gran Prix worked in my life, setting up a lot of my future – and you threw that out there to stir the kettle!
Shakespeare never got around (next on the list?) to write a play, explaining more about our humanity, “NOISE” – so it’s on your Post It for the future!
Dude!
Had to share this.
https://youtu.be/wflJVB4cM_c?si=9kWq_W1nZEUWEDeF
You mean to tell me that seeing Shannon Hudspeth waddling into Room 7 with her latest find is not as culturally enriching as hanging out with Stevie Nicks or Tom Petty?
It’s subjective.