STORIES

THE LAST FAMILY VACATION


The white 1961 Plymouth Savoy came rolling into Fort Stockton with no particular need to be noticed, which naturally meant everyone at Grounds for Divorce noticed it at once. It was not flashy enough to be admired by people who thought admiration required chrome in heroic quantities, and it was not ruined enough to be pitied by those who enjoyed pitying machinery. It was simply old and honest, wearing tired white paint, plain hubcaps, and a green interior that looked as if it had absorbed every summer between Eisenhower and yesterday. The car eased along Dickinson Boulevard with the patient hum of a Slant Six that had never once mistaken itself for a performance engine, and when it passed the diner window, Rex Hall lifted his coffee cup halfway to his mouth and stopped.

“That’s a Savoy,” Rex said. “Not a Fury. Folks get that wrong.”

Lucinda, who had spent a lifetime around men who considered naming trim levels a spiritual gift, poured coffee without looking up. “Does the car know?”

Hairless B29 leaned toward the window. The driver’s seat was worn shiny at the edge, the rear door needed an extra shove from the woman climbing out, and the roof carried that peculiar dullness old paint gets when weather has not defeated it so much as negotiated terms. He watched the Plymouth settle against the curb like a dog returning to a porch it had never forgotten.

“That ain’t a collector car,” Hairless said.

Chad from the Piggly Wiggly squinted. “Then what is it?”

Hairless smiled. “That’s the last room a family ever shared.”

Long before that Savoy rolled past Grounds for Divorce, it had backed out of a driveway on Missouri Street at six-twenty in the morning on a July day in 1964, packed to the springs with suitcases, sandwiches, maps, blankets, two jars of sweet iced tea, a Brownie Hawkeye camera, a box of saltine crackers, and five members of the Nix family, none of whom fully understood they were leaving on the last vacation they would ever take together. Orville Nix had checked the oil twice, tapped each tire with the seriousness of a railroad inspector, and arranged the trunk according to a system visible only to men who believed rope, tarps, and preparation could outwit fate. His wife Marion had been up since four, frying bacon for breakfast sandwiches and wrapping them in wax paper while reminding everyone that restaurant food cost money, which was her way of saying she loved them.

Their daughter Elaine was seventeen and had recently become embarrassed by almost everything, including her parents, her brothers, the Plymouth, Fort Stockton, and the fact that she belonged to a family visible to the public. In six weeks she would leave for college in Lubbock, and although she had told nobody this directly, she had already begun practicing a future in which she would be known as Elaine Nix, interesting young woman, rather than Elaine Nix, older sister of Dennis and Bobby. Dennis was fourteen, all knees and objections, freshly committed to sarcasm and convinced the world had placed him in the wrong family as a test of endurance. Bobby, nine years old and still loyal to wonder, had spent the previous evening studying a road atlas upside down and announcing that every place west of Pecos looked close enough to visit before lunch.

Nobody wanted to go in exactly the same way. Orville wanted the vacation, but mostly the version he had carried around for two years while saving money in an envelope marked TRIP. Marion wanted the children to appreciate what their father had done, which guaranteed they would not until decades later, when appreciation would arrive too late to be useful but just in time to ache. Elaine wanted to stay home because a boy named Gary Don had started parking his bicycle near her porch in the evenings, and Gary Don had sideburns, a used guitar, and no known future, which made him perfect. Dennis wanted the back seat divided by law. Bobby wanted every billboard honored as a covenant. The Plymouth wanted nothing, which was why it was the most mature member of the family.



By the time they passed through Pecos, the green vinyl had warmed against the backs of their legs, Marion’s scarf had blown loose twice, and Orville had already said, “We are making good time,” in the tone of a man who believed time was livestock and he had just roped some. The Plymouth’s vent windows caught the hot West Texas air and shaped it into narrow streams that struck the children in unequal portions, causing accusations, negotiations, and one brief constitutional crisis over whether Dennis had deliberately blocked Bobby’s breeze with his shoulder.

“Dennis is breathing on me,” Bobby said.

“I am breathing in general,” Dennis said.

“Breathe on your side.”

“This whole car is my side.”

Orville looked at them in the rearview mirror anchored atop the dashboard, where fathers of that era conducted most domestic diplomacy. “If I pull this Plymouth over, everybody’s going to get a geography lesson.”

Elaine sighed at the window. “I didn’t do anything.”

Marion reached into the paper sack at her feet. “You were thinking it.”

That first day across New Mexico had very little plot and nearly all the ingredients of memory. They passed towns so small the gas station seemed to be holding them down, cattle standing in the shade of anything generous enough to cast one, and billboards promising caverns, petrified wood, moccasins, fireworks, and the largest rattlesnake in the Southwest. Orville refused to stop for the rattlesnake because, as he put it, there were perfectly good rattlesnakes closer to home, but he surrendered to the Sinclair dinosaur after Bobby saw the green figure rising above a service station and made a noise sharp enough to damage parental resolve. Elaine refused to be photographed beside it until Marion calmly explained that the alternative was sitting between both brothers until Albuquerque, at which point Elaine stood beside the dinosaur wearing the face of a condemned heiress.

At the time, she hoped nobody she knew would ever see that picture. Years later, when the colors had faded and the corners had curled, she would keep it in her dresser drawer and take it out on difficult afternoons.

Inside the Plymouth, life resumed its natural disorder. Marion handed sandwiches over the seat and warned against dropping crumbs, as if the floorboards had not already collected enough cracker dust to feed doves. Dennis complained that the mustard had soaked into the bread. Elaine said his voice had soaked into her skull. Bobby asked whether the Grand Canyon had guardrails, elevators, bears, or Indians, and Orville began an explanation involving the Colorado River, erosion, and millions of years, though after a while it became clear Bobby was more interested in whether gift shops sold rubber tomahawks. The Plymouth carried all of it without comment, its engine making that steady, modest sound that seemed less like motion than duty.

Their first motel had a swimming pool shaped like a kidney, a sign that buzzed all night, and a room whose air conditioner produced more conviction than cold air. Orville sat on the bed and rubbed his lower back while pretending to inspect the television. Marion counted bills from one envelope into another and made a note in a little tablet she kept in her purse. Elaine stood by the window, watching other families drag luggage from station wagons, and felt the humiliation of being ordinary among the ordinary. Dennis claimed the rollaway bed with the authority of conquest. Bobby jumped into the pool wearing cutoffs because nobody had remembered his trunks, and for once nobody corrected him right away.



That evening they ate at the diner next door, where the waitress called Orville “hon,” Bobby spilled water, and Dennis announced that the chicken-fried steak tasted different from Texas chicken-fried steak in a way he could not define but deeply resented. Marion told him someday he would miss meals like this. Dennis said he doubted that. Orville said doubt was free and therefore popular. Elaine gave Gary Don’s name one secret thought and then, to her own surprise, laughed when Bobby tried to drink the last of his milkshake too fast and produced a sound like plumbing in distress.

The next day, rain came hard across Arizona without warning, flattening the desert and turning the strangely sloped windshield into a gray curtain. The wipers slapped back and forth with tired determination. Orville slowed, Marion stopped handing out crackers, and for ten miles nobody argued. Bobby, granted temporary refuge in the front seat after Dennis accused him of illegal knee migration, leaned against his mother and fell asleep with one cheek pressed into her sleeve. Marion adjusted herself so his neck would not bend wrong. Elaine saw it from the back seat and looked away, not because she was unmoved, but because tenderness embarrassed her even more than the Plymouth.

No one knew it was the last time Bobby would ever fit there.

They reached the Grand Canyon late in the afternoon, sunburned, unwashed, and full of the small resentments that families carry like pocket change. Orville parked the Savoy among newer station wagons and sedans from every state that had produced children capable of complaining. They walked toward the rim still bickering over Elaine’s missing sunglasses and whether Bobby had purchased a souvenir before receiving permission. Then the canyon opened in front of them, immense and silent and beyond any family’s ability to reduce it to argument. Even Elaine forgot to arrange her face. Dennis stared hard, as though trying not to be impressed and failing. Marion slipped her hand into Orville’s. Bobby whispered that the river was still working.

“Yes,” Orville said. “It is.”



The strange thing was that the canyon did not become the memory they kept best. They remembered it, of course, because who could forget a hole in the world that looked as though God had set down His pocketknife and carved for pleasure. But what returned more often in later years were smaller things. Marion laughing into her napkin over pancakes she declared the worst in North America. Orville singing half of “Cool Water” before inventing new lyrics about transmission fluid. Dennis walking into the ladies’ room at a Wyoming gas station and backing out with the frozen dignity of a diplomat who had crossed the wrong border. Elaine pretending not to enjoy herself and enjoying herself anyway. Bobby falling asleep after supper with his rubber tomahawk across his chest like a warrior overcome by cherry pie.

That was the cruelty and mercy of the last family vacation: nobody knows when one is happening. It does not announce itself with trumpets. It does not pause at the edge of the driveway and say, Pay attention, this is the final time all five of you will be contained inside one car, irritated by the same heat, eating from the same paper sack, being embarrassed by the same father. It simply unfolds as an inconvenience, then waits thirty years to reveal itself as treasure.

Life separated them with its usual efficiency. Elaine went to college, married, moved twice, raised daughters, and became a woman who mailed thank-you notes before other people had found stamps. Dennis joined the Army, came home quieter, opened an insurance office, and spent much of his life insisting he did not care for trips, which was one of those lies a person tells so long it becomes furniture. Bobby grew tall, raised sons of his own, and discovered that fatherhood made Orville easier to understand and harder to forgive for being gone. Marion died first, after an illness that turned the house on Missouri Street into a place of casseroles, whispers, and lowered voices. Orville lasted nine more years, driving the Savoy to church, the grocery store, and Rex Hall Drug until one day he stopped driving it and then, not long after, stopped altogether.

The Plymouth remained in the garage, too meaningful to sell and too inconvenient to honor. Families are full of such objects. They become quiet monuments under old sheets, collecting dust while everyone says something ought to be done. The tires softened. The battery died. The paint dulled further. Yet the car did not seem abandoned so much as patient, like it understood that people are slow to return to the places where they left their younger selves.

One spring, when Elaine, Dennis, and Bobby were old enough to speak of 1964 as though it belonged to another civilization, they gathered in Fort Stockton to settle the last pieces of the old house. Dennis raised the garage door, and afternoon light slid across the Plymouth’s hood. Dust lay on the windshield. The green seats waited behind the glass, as though they resided in a fish bowl. The old Savoy faced the door exactly as if Orville had parked it there after church and intended to come back out once he found his hat.

Elaine touched the roof with two fingers. “I hated this car.”

Dennis looked at the worn rear seat. “You hated everything that summer.”

“I was seventeen. It was my calling.”



Bobby opened the passenger door, which resisted until he gave it the extra shove they all remembered. Warm old air came out, carrying faint traces of vinyl, dust, oil, and something too fragile to name. For a moment none of them were grandparents, widowers, divorcees, patients, taxpayers, or people with pill organizers and reading glasses. They were three children standing at the entrance to a room they had once been desperate to escape.

“I’d ride in it again,” Bobby said.

So they did, though not immediately. The Plymouth required brakes, hoses, belts, tires, fluids, a battery, and the attention of a mechanic who treated old cars with more respect than some people treat scripture. Nobody restored it into youth. That would have been vulgar. They made it safe, willing, and honest, leaving the faded paint, the worn seat, the stubborn door, and the small scars that proved it had done things more important than being parked at shows. When the Slant Six finally started, it did not roar back to life. It resumed.  Picked up where it left off.

They set out before sunrise, because Orville had trained them better than they knew. Elaine brought the old Sinclair photograph in a manila envelope. Dennis brought paper maps, partly out of principle and partly because arguing with a telephone lacked dignity. Bobby packed sandwiches in wax paper and forgot the mustard on purpose. The Plymouth rolled west with its windows down, passed by newer cars sealed in air-conditioned silence, while inside the Savoy three old siblings began the long, impossible work of traveling toward childhood without pretending they could arrive there.



They did not find the Sinclair dinosaur. In its place stood a convenience store selling energy drinks, lottery tickets, and phone chargers. Elaine held the old photograph up toward the empty corner of the lot and studied the furious young girl standing beside painted plywood.

“I thought that picture would ruin my life,” she said.

Dennis leaned closer. “You did look miserable.”

Bobby smiled. “She looks happy now.”

Elaine lowered the photograph. “That’s because she doesn’t know anything yet.”

At a picnic table in Colorado, they ate sandwiches while wind lifted the napkins and the Plymouth waited beside them, its strange white flanks dull in the afternoon sun. They talked about Orville’s burned hamburgers, Marion’s terrible pancakes, the motel pool, the ladies’ room incident Dennis continued to deny despite overwhelming historical evidence. They laughed carefully at first, then freely, then with that helplessness that comes when grief and gratitude discover they have been sitting at the same table all along. Elaine wiped her eyes and blamed the wind. Her brothers accepted the lie because they loved her.

“I spent that whole trip wishing I was somewhere else,” she said.

Dennis folded his wax paper into a neat square. “So did I.”

Bobby looked at the Savoy, at the road, at the empty place where their parents should have been. “Turns out we were already there.”

They reached the Grand Canyon near evening. The three of them moved slower than they had in 1964, stopping for knees, breath, and the plain astonishment of still being alive together. The canyon had not made any effort to accommodate their nostalgia. It remained itself, vast and indifferent and somehow kind. Far below, the river continued its patient work. Elaine took the old photograph from the envelope, and for a long while they stood holding both trips in their minds at once: Orville young and certain, Marion alive and laughing, Elaine embarrassed, Dennis smirking, Bobby believing in every billboard, and the Plymouth waiting behind them like a faithful dog. An ugly but faithful runt.

“I miss them,” Dennis said.

Elaine nodded. “I miss us.”

When the Savoy returned to Fort Stockton, the sun was lowering behind the courthouse and Dickinson Boulevard had taken on the color of old postcards. It passed Rusty Hammer Hardware, Rex Hall Drug, and the Dairy Twin before easing by Grounds for Divorce, where Lucinda was wiping the counter and Hairless B29 was pretending he had not been watching for it. Elaine sat in front, Dennis drove, Bobby rode in back, and the rubber tomahawk lay beneath the rear window like evidence in a trial no one intended to prosecute.

Lucinda watched the Plymouth pass. “You know them?”

Hairless shook his head. “No. But I know where they’ve been.”



The Savoy continued down Dickinson Boulevard with no shine, no hurry, and no need to explain itself. Inside, three old people sat in the same green room where they had once been young and crowded and mortified by belonging to one another. When they reached Missouri Street, Dennis shut off the engine, but nobody got out. The Plymouth Slant Six softly in the cooling evening, holding them there a little longer.

Elaine touched the dashboard. “I wish Daddy had known.”

Bobby looked at the house, then at the road behind them. “Known what?”

She smiled, and for one brief second she was seventeen again, embarrassed and beloved and not yet gone from home.

“That we had a wonderful time.”



7 responses to “THE LAST FAMILY VACATION”

  1. I was there, too. Family vacations I was to cool to be on, sibling arguments in the back seat, picnic lunches because restaurants are expensive…memories firmly etched, even as the mental pictures turn to sepia. Though I have a severe aversion to staying in hotels with painted cinderblock walls…time hasn’t put any rose colored glasses on that memory.

    Thanks for the story, Captain.

  2. Brings back a flood of memories, cross-country drives, and so many places we visited as family-
    first with our parents-
    later with our kids.

  3. Some stories hurt. Some stories REALLY hurt.

    I’m sitting in my home office, staring at my newest Corvette item – an antique-looking banner of an old service station, servicing Corvettes, backed up by the PacificOcean, with a sign, Laid-Back Garage 1969.
    Nostalgia – memories, smiles, pain, emotions, who was I-Really, embarrassments, do-overs, and possibly the worst, Longings!

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